Vitale Barberis Canonico fabric: what it is and what you pay for
The Italian mill with 1663 on its selvedge, in two minutes
If you have seen the name Vitale Barberis Canonico on a cloth book or a selvedge, here is what it means in a few paragraphs: who makes the cloth, what you pay for and which one to choose for a made-to-measure suit in Lisbon.
What is Vitale Barberis Canonico?
Vitale Barberis Canonico is an Italian wool mill in Pratrivero, in Piedmont. The oldest document of the family's wool trade is dated 1663, and that year is woven into the selvedge of every length. In 1910 Giuseppe Barberis Canonico built a full-cycle factory in Pratrivero, and the mill is still run by the family: Alessandro, Francesco and Lucia Barberis Canonico. In 2016 it produced about nine million metres of cloth and sold around half of it under its own name.
What you pay for in Vitale Barberis Canonico fabric
You pay for a worsted wool cloth that is woven, dyed and finished at the mill itself, with the kind of consistency a family business builds over generations. The cloth holds a crease, recovers after a day of wear and ages evenly. The Super number on the book, such as Super 110s or Super 150s, tells you how fine the wool fibre is: the higher the number, the softer the hand and the more gently the suit should be worn. For a suit you will wear every week, a middle count is the sensible choice.
Which cloth to choose
For most men I suggest a year-round navy or grey worsted of medium weight: it works in a Lisbon winter and on a cool summer evening. For July and August choose a light, open cloth such as a tropical wool. For an office suit that travels, a slightly heavier weave keeps its shape better in a suitcase.
A made-to-measure suit in Vitale Barberis Canonico cloth
At the atelier we keep the current Vitale Barberis Canonico books. You choose the cloth by hand, we take your measurements, and the suit is cut and sewn in our own workshop in Portugal with a full canvas. It takes four to six weeks with one fitting, and we deliver anywhere in the world free of charge. The price depends on the cloth and is given at the first meeting. Read more about our made-to-measure suits in Lisbon.
Before you order
Is Vitale Barberis Canonico a good fabric for a suit? Yes. It is a worsted wool cloth from one of the oldest family mills in Italy, made for suits that are worn often and need to keep their shape.
Vitale Barberis Canonico vs Loro Piana: what is the difference? Both are Italian. Loro Piana is known for rare fibres such as vicuña and baby cashmere; Vitale Barberis Canonico is known for dependable wool suitings for everyday wear. We keep both at the atelier and show them side by side.
How long does a made-to-measure suit in this cloth take? Four to six weeks from the first appointment, with one fitting.
Coffee, cloth books and the tailor
We will show you the Vitale Barberis Canonico cloth books, introduce you to the tailor and take your measurements if you wish. The meeting takes about an hour and commits you to nothing.