The ATELIER 23 Tradition of Bespoke Tailoring in Lisbon
Every suit tells a story about how it was made. The materials, the construction method, the decisions taken at each stage of production — all of it is visible in how the garment falls, moves, and ages. At ATELIER 23, we work in the tradition of Neapolitan tailoring: a school that has influenced the finest menswear in the world for over a century.
The Neapolitan School: What It Means
Naples developed its own approach to tailoring distinct from the English tradition of Savile Row. Where London favoured a rigid, structured silhouette, the Neapolitan masters built softness into their work — a natural shoulder without padding, a jacket that follows the body rather than imposing a shape on it.
The key technical element is the floating canvas: a layer of horsehair canvas that is hand-stitched to the wool rather than glued. This construction breathes, moves with the wearer, and gradually moulds to the body over time. It does not bubble after dry cleaning, does not stiffen with age, and does not lose its structure. It improves.
Contrast this with fused construction — found in most garment-district suits and many mid-range made-to-measure services — where an interlining is glued to the fabric. Fused suits are cheaper and faster to produce. They also degrade. After a season of regular wear and a few trips to the dry cleaner, the front panel begins to separate from the fabric and the jacket loses its form permanently.
From Savile Row to Lisbon: How We Work
ATELIER 23 was founded in Russia in 2017. We built our practice on the Neapolitan model: floating canvas as standard, not an upgrade; Italian fabrics from the mills we specify rather than anonymous stock; construction details that require more time but produce work that lasts.
In Lisbon, we work from our atelier on Avenida da Liberdade 110 — the city's main luxury boulevard. Every garment is produced at our workshop in Serra da Estrela, Portugal's highest mountain range, approximately two hours from Lisbon. The master tailors there have worked with us for years and carry over thirty years of individual experience.
The Factory in Serra da Estrela
Portugal has a long textile tradition. The Serra da Estrela region has been producing fine wool since the eighteenth century, and its craftsmen understand cloth in a way that factory-trained workers rarely do. Our factory is not a large-scale production facility — it is a workshop, with a small team of experienced tailors working on a limited number of garments at any time.
This is deliberate. Volume is the enemy of quality in tailoring. A master tailor who is making eight suits a week is not doing the same work as one making eight suits a month. We keep production small so that every garment receives the time it requires.
The Fabrics We Use
We source fabrics from the major Italian and British mills: Loro Piana, Scabal, Holland & Sherry, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Dormeuil. For knitwear, we use Cashwool® and SuperGelong from Zegna Baruffa — yarns that define the upper end of fine knitwear production.
We also work with a curated selection of Portuguese wools from Serra da Estrela — an acknowledgement of the region where our factory is based and the quality its textile tradition produces.
Fabric weights range from 220g/m² for summer suiting to 340g/m² for winter weight. We carry samples from each mill and walk every client through the differences at the first consultation.
Our Process
The consultation takes forty-five minutes. We discuss the purpose of the garment, the client's existing wardrobe, the occasions it needs to serve. We look at posture, at how the client moves, at the details that determine how a jacket needs to be built for a specific body. Only then do we take measurements — over twenty in total.
Fabric selection follows. We show the relevant options for the client's brief, explain the differences plainly, and allow time to feel each cloth. This is not a transaction — it is a conversation about what the finished garment needs to be.
Production takes six to eight weeks at our Serra da Estrela workshop. Every garment passes through multiple quality checks. We track the construction at each stage.
The fitting takes place when the garment returns to Lisbon. We check every line — shoulder, chest, waist, seat, trouser break. Minor adjustments are made. Final delivery follows within a week.
What This Means for the Garment
A suit made this way does not look the same after five years of wear — it looks better. The canvas has moulded. The wool has settled. The garment has adapted to the specific body wearing it. This is the difference between a suit that is purchased and a suit that is owned.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between bespoke and made-to-measure?
Bespoke means a completely individual pattern is drafted from scratch for one body, requiring multiple fittings over several months. Made-to-measure uses an existing base pattern adjusted to individual measurements. ATELIER 23 works in made-to-measure with bespoke-level construction details: floating canvas, hand finishing, and fabric from the same mills used by the major Italian houses.
What is floating canvas construction?
A floating canvas is a layer of horsehair canvas hand-stitched (not glued) to the wool of the jacket front. It gives the jacket its structure while allowing it to breathe and move. Over time, it moulds to the wearer's body. This is the construction method used by Brioni, Kiton, and the great Neapolitan ateliers. It is what we use as standard at ATELIER 23.
How long does a made-to-measure suit take at ATELIER 23?
Six to eight weeks from the first measurement appointment to delivery. If you are leaving Lisbon before the suit is ready, we ship worldwide.
Where is ATELIER 23 located in Lisbon?
Avenida da Liberdade 110, second floor. Open Monday through Sunday, 10:00–20:00. Consultations by appointment.
Book a Consultation
The first consultation is free and takes about forty-five minutes. Contact us at info@atelier23.store or via WhatsApp. We confirm within a few hours and can usually find a slot within two to three days.
ATELIER 23 — Neapolitan tailoring tradition, made in Portugal, fitted in Lisbon. Avenida da Liberdade 110. Open seven days a week.