How to Commission Your First Made to Measure Shirt
What to think about before the appointment, what happens during it, and what is decided at the fitting. A guide for a first made to measure shirt.
Most men commission a made to measure shirt for the first time with some uncertainty about what the process involves. How long does it take? What decisions will I have to make? Will it be awkward if I don't know the names for things? What do I do if the finished shirt doesn't fit?
This guide answers all of those questions. By the end of it, you should know exactly what to expect — and arrive at your consultation prepared rather than guessing.
Before the Consultation: What to Bring
A shirt that fits well. If you own a shirt you are happy with — even if it is not perfect — bring it to the consultation. It gives the shirtmaker a reference point: where the collar sits, how the cuff falls, whether the chest is right. A physical example communicates more than a verbal description.
A sense of your wardrobe context. Are you commissioning a business shirt to wear under a suit? A casual shirt for weekends? Formal dress shirts for black tie events? The answer determines the collar style, the fabric weight, the cuff choice. The shirtmaker will ask — but arriving with a clear brief saves time and produces a better result.
No need to know the names. You do not need to know the difference between a spread collar and a semi-spread, or between poplin and twill, before the appointment. The shirtmaker will show you options and explain them. What matters is that you can say what you like and what you do not.
The Consultation: What Happens
A first consultation for a made to measure shirt takes thirty to forty-five minutes. It covers three areas.
Measurements. The shirtmaker takes twelve to fifteen measurements. Neck circumference, chest, waist, seat, shoulder width, sleeve length, arm circumference. They will also note your posture — whether one shoulder sits higher, whether you carry your weight forward — because these affect how the pattern is adjusted.
Style choices. Collar style, collar band height, cuff style, placket, fabric. The shirtmaker will present relevant options for your brief and explain the trade-offs. You make the decisions; they note them.
Fabric selection. You will see and handle the fabric options. A good shirtmaker brings samples, not a catalogue. The weight, the weave, the hand — how a fabric feels — all affect the finished shirt. Poplin is smooth and crisp; twill is softer with more drape; Oxford is textured and casual. You will know immediately which direction suits you.
What to Expect at Delivery
A made to measure shirt takes four to six weeks from consultation to delivery. At delivery, try the shirt on immediately. Check:
The collar. With the top button fastened, you should be able to insert two fingers comfortably. The collar should not gap at the front. The points should lie flat.
The chest. With your arms at your sides, there should be no pulling across the chest. With arms raised, there should be no restriction. The fabric should hang cleanly from the shoulders without excess bunching at the sides.
The sleeves. The sleeve length should place the cuff 1.5cm below your jacket sleeve when your arm is at rest. The sleeve should not restrict movement when you raise your arm.
The length. With the shirt tucked in, make a full forward bend and raise both arms. The shirt tail should stay tucked.
What Happens If Something Needs Adjusting
On a first shirt, minor adjustments after delivery are normal and expected. A collar that sits slightly high, a sleeve that needs shortening by half a centimetre — these are corrected at the fitting appointment, or at a follow-up visit if needed. A good shirtmaker includes this as part of the service, not as an extra.
Once the adjustments are confirmed, your pattern is on file. Repeat orders can be placed without returning for measurements — which is where the real value of made to measure shirting becomes clear. You call, specify the cloth, and the shirt arrives six weeks later, correct from the first wearing.
Questions before ordering
How many shirts should I commission at once?
For a first commission, one or two. Once the pattern is established and you have confirmed the fit, subsequent orders can be placed more freely. Starting with one shirt reduces risk and allows you to refine the pattern if anything needs adjustment.
Can I order a made to measure shirt remotely after the first one?
Yes. Once your pattern is on file, repeat orders require only a fabric selection and can be placed by email or WhatsApp. We ship worldwide.
How do I care for a made to measure shirt?
Machine wash on a delicate cycle at 30°C, or hand wash. Press while slightly damp with a medium iron. Do not tumble dry — heat damages cotton fibres and shrinks the shirt. Mother of pearl buttons can fracture in the dryer.
Shirts in the catalogue: White Shirt · Light Blue Shirt · Denim Shirt
Book a visit to ATELIER 23
We show the cloths in the length, take measurements and give you a date. Finished garments are in the catalogue and the process is described on made to measure. The visit takes about an hour and commits you to nothing.