The A23 Journal

Navy velvet dinner jacket with black satin peak lapel, ATELIER 23

The dinner jacket. Bought once in a lifetime

How a smoking jacket outlived smoking, why the Duke of Windsor painted the evening blue, and why a December dinner jacket is ordered in October.

The dinner jacket. Bought once in a lifetime

How a smoking jacket outlived smoking, why the Duke of Windsor painted the evening blue, and why a December dinner jacket is ordered in October.

Black double-breasted overcoat by ATELIER 23, six buttons

The overcoat. The one garment people see in full

Why the overcoat matters most in a city that barely has a winter, how many goats go into one cashmere coat, and why it is ordered in September.

The overcoat. The one garment people see in full

Why the overcoat matters most in a city that barely has a winter, how many goats go into one cashmere coat, and why it is ordered in September.

Groom buttoning an ivory linen double-breasted jacket, black bow tie and white rose

A groom's suit in Portugal. Three pieces by day, black tie by night

How we dressed a groom for a wedding in Sintra, why two garments were needed, and what changes when a suit is cut for a hot country.

A groom's suit in Portugal. Three pieces by day, black tie by night

How we dressed a groom for a wedding in Sintra, why two garments were needed, and what changes when a suit is cut for a hot country.

ATELIER 23 name and date label on a brown linen jacket with green lining

A New Presence in Lisbon That Starts by Listening

Some Lisbon tailoring houses are over a hundred years old. Ours is not, and does not pretend to be: we listen before we cut.

A New Presence in Lisbon That Starts by Listening

Some Lisbon tailoring houses are over a hundred years old. Ours is not, and does not pretend to be: we listen before we cut.

Groom in an ivory linen double-breasted jacket with a black bow tie and a white rose

How to Dress for a Summer Wedding in Portugal Without Overheating

Cloths that breathe, colours that hold up in sun, and what changes between a one o'clock ceremony and dinner outdoors.

How to Dress for a Summer Wedding in Portugal Without Overheating

Cloths that breathe, colours that hold up in sun, and what changes between a one o'clock ceremony and dinner outdoors.

Groom in a light suit with a black bow tie, white rose boutonniere and pocket square

The Wedding Suit: A Complete Guide for the Groom, His Father and the Groomsmen

Who dresses first and who dresses after: the groom, his father and the groomsmen, and the half-tone rule that keeps them from looking identical.

The Wedding Suit: A Complete Guide for the Groom, His Father and the Groomsmen

Who dresses first and who dresses after: the groom, his father and the groomsmen, and the half-tone rule that keeps them from looking identical.

White ATELIER 23 shirt, collar and placket detail

How to Commission Your First Made to Measure Shirt

What to think about before the appointment, what happens during it, and what is decided at the fitting. A guide for a first made to measure shirt.

How to Commission Your First Made to Measure Shirt

What to think about before the appointment, what happens during it, and what is decided at the fitting. A guide for a first made to measure shirt.

ATELIER 23 name and date label on the white striped lining of a brown jacket

The Suit That Improves With Age: Canvas, Cloth, and Longevity

Why a hand-canvassed jacket looks better after three years while a fused one comes apart, and how a suit should be looked after.

The Suit That Improves With Age: Canvas, Cloth, and Longevity

Why a hand-canvassed jacket looks better after three years while a fused one comes apart, and how a suit should be looked after.

Grey jacket cuff with four buttons, ATELIER 23

Ten Rules for a Suit Worth Keeping

Ten things to check before buying a suit, from the canvas to the jacket length, all visible in two minutes at a mirror.

Ten Rules for a Suit Worth Keeping

Ten things to check before buying a suit, from the canvas to the jacket length, all visible in two minutes at a mirror.

Collar of a light denim ATELIER 23 shirt with mother-of-pearl buttons

The 23 Decisions Inside a Bespoke Shirt: What Separates Good From Great

Twenty-three decisions lie between choosing the cotton and wearing the shirt. Together they make the difference between a shirt and your shirt.

The 23 Decisions Inside a Bespoke Shirt: What Separates Good From Great

Twenty-three decisions lie between choosing the cotton and wearing the shirt. Together they make the difference between a shirt and your shirt.

White made to measure shirt folded on a brown quilted suede chair

The White Shirt Problem: Why Most Men Own Five and Wear None

The simplest garment in a wardrobe and the hardest to get right: with no pattern to distract the eye, every flaw of fit shows.

The White Shirt Problem: Why Most Men Own Five and Wear None

The simplest garment in a wardrobe and the hardest to get right: with no pattern to distract the eye, every flaw of fit shows.

Vitale Barberis Canonico bunch book on beige chalk stripe flannel

Your First Appointment at ATELIER 23, Step by Step

What happens across the hour of a first appointment on Avenida da Liberdade, and across the six weeks that follow it.

Your First Appointment at ATELIER 23, Step by Step

What happens across the hour of a first appointment on Avenida da Liberdade, and across the six weeks that follow it.

Black satin peak lapel of an ATELIER 23 dinner jacket

21 Rules for Black Tie: The Definitive Guide

What an invitation marked black tie actually says, why the bow tie is tied by hand, and the twenty-one rules we repeat to clients.

21 Rules for Black Tie: The Definitive Guide

What an invitation marked black tie actually says, why the bow tie is tied by hand, and the twenty-one rules we repeat to clients.

ATELIER 23 label and Scabal cloth label inside a navy velvet dinner jacket

The ATELIER 23 Tradition of Bespoke Tailoring in Lisbon

What happens to a suit in the four weeks between the cloth on the table and the fitting, and what the number on every garment is for.

The ATELIER 23 Tradition of Bespoke Tailoring in Lisbon

What happens to a suit in the four weeks between the cloth on the table and the fitting, and what the number on every garment is for.

Ivory silk double-breasted jacket with peak lapels, ATELIER 23

How to Wear a Double-Breasted Jacket: The Complete Guide

Why the double-breasted jacket came from the sea, what a rollneck does underneath it, and why it is never unbuttoned, however much you want to.

How to Wear a Double-Breasted Jacket: The Complete Guide

Why the double-breasted jacket came from the sea, what a rollneck does underneath it, and why it is never unbuttoned, however much you want to.

Charcoal crew neck wool sweater by ATELIER 23

Gelong Wool: The Cashmere Alternative Worth Knowing

How Australia came to have the finest wool in the world, and why a lamb's first shearing is softer than any other.

Gelong Wool: The Cashmere Alternative Worth Knowing

How Australia came to have the finest wool in the world, and why a lamb's first shearing is softer than any other.

Close-up of navy fine-gauge wool knit with a ribbed neckline, ATELIER 23

Cashwool by Zegna Baruffa: The Wool That Feels Like Cashmere

Why men who wear knitwear every day choose Borgosesia yarn over cashmere, and how a Cashwool sweater looks after three winters.

Cashwool by Zegna Baruffa: The Wool That Feels Like Cashmere

Why men who wear knitwear every day choose Borgosesia yarn over cashmere, and how a Cashwool sweater looks after three winters.

Grey ATELIER 23 suit jacket, two buttons

History of the Men's Suit: From Beau Brummell to Today

How a dandy with no title taught Europe to dress, what Naples did to the shoulder, and why the suit outlived jeans and video calls.

History of the Men's Suit: From Beau Brummell to Today

How a dandy with no title taught Europe to dress, what Naples did to the shoulder, and why the suit outlived jeans and video calls.

Navy made to measure suit by ATELIER 23 in Lisbon

Made to Measure Suit in Lisbon: Prices, Process & What to Expect

One pattern built to one body, cloth chosen by hand, one fitting, and four to six weeks from table to hanger.

Made to Measure Suit in Lisbon: Prices, Process & What to Expect

One pattern built to one body, cloth chosen by hand, one fitting, and four to six weeks from table to hanger.

An order being checked at the ATELIER 23 workshop in the Serra da Estrela

How to Judge a Tailor in Lisbon

What to ask, what to look at inside a jacket, and what a first appointment should feel like: how to judge a tailor in Lisbon.

How to Judge a Tailor in Lisbon

What to ask, what to look at inside a jacket, and what a first appointment should feel like: how to judge a tailor in Lisbon.

Vitale Barberis Canonico bunch book on taupe flannel trousers

Bespoke or Made to Measure: What You Are Actually Buying

Where the word bespoke came from, what made to measure changes, and which of the two a first suit in Lisbon actually calls for.

Bespoke or Made to Measure: What You Are Actually Buying

Where the word bespoke came from, what made to measure changes, and which of the two a first suit in Lisbon actually calls for.

Black ATELIER 23 suit jacket, two buttons, no ornament

The Great Masculine Renunciation: The History of the Suit You Should Know

Why a psychologist coined a term for the male wardrobe in 1930, and what became of lace and powdered wigs after 1800.

The Great Masculine Renunciation: The History of the Suit You Should Know

Why a psychologist coined a term for the male wardrobe in 1930, and what became of lace and powdered wigs after 1800.